We need new alternatives for unecological materials, but what is the source of such materials? And what would happen if universities were to encourage collaboration between the designers and chemical engineers of the future to develop bio-based materials?
Aalto University’s School of Chemical Engineering! (CHEM) and School of Arts, Design and Architecture (ARTS) initiated the CHEMARTS programme in 2011 following discussions on similar topics between Pirjo Kääriäinen, Professor of Design, and Tapani Vuorinen, Professor of Forest Products Chemistry. More than a decade later, CHEMARTS hosts an internationally acclaimed summer school, along with open modules for all Aalto University students, facilitating interdisciplinary material experiments.
The chosen method for these explorations has been discovery through hands-on experimentation. In CHEMARTS, design pedagogy converges with a scientific approach in a rather unique way. Kääriäinen emphasises the significance of play and experimentation in the journey towards surprising ideas. “Material development isn’t always the primary goal of every project. Sometimes, simply viewing something from a fresh perspective can be enough.”
While some experiments lead swiftly to innovations that can be harnessed rapidly, material research often progresses slowly. The path from ideas to actual products can last up to a decade.
“When we embark on transforming ideas into products, we must consider all aspects,” Kääriäinen notes. “The media may latch onto a particular concept, generating widespread hype even if we’re only in the initial stages. For instance, many promising leather alternatives lack water repellency or suitability for cold temperatures. Historically, this issue would be resolved with a plastic coating, rendering the product unrecyclable. At Aalto, it’s imperative for us not to create further problems through ideas meant to be ecologically sound at their core.”
This ethos was prominently showcased in this year’s Unlikely Materials exhibition, featured as part of the annual Designs for a Cooler Planet festival, where early-stage biomaterial experiments were presented. Could bubble wrap be produced with cellulose? What would it entail for us to step out wearing soy-based shoes or shirts crafted from invasive roadside plants? CHEMARTS summer school participants share their thoughts.
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Bubbles with Benefits – Making Bubble Wrap from Cellulose
Satu Paavonsalo, BA student in Design, Aalto University:
“Humanity needs to learn to consume less, but we probably can’t minimise everything completely. For instance, packaging materials will still be needed in the future. That’s why they need to be as environmentally friendly as possible.
We came up with the idea of cellulose-based bubble wrap by accident. When starting the summer school, I had the idea of making some kind of balloon-like material, or something bubbly. Working with Valentin Schwarz, we ended up producing something resembling bubble wrap. We instantly realised this could have plenty of potential.
After the summer school, we had the opportunity to further develop our idea through the Aalto Digital Creatives incubator programme. With the assistance of their innovation services, we expanded our team and are now seeking funding to optimise our material and its production methods for greater efficiency. Our idea is well on its way to becoming a product that could truly serve as an alternative to traditional bubble wrap.
We are also exploring other types of replacements for packaging materials. Our aim is to create a full product family of biodegradable packaging materials.
The bubble wrap project demonstrates that expertise in materials or chemical engineering is not a necessary precondition for creating something new or intriguing. A broad-minded yet professional laboratory environment, with space for open and even wild experimentation can be enough. Even with my background as a biologist, I wouldn’t have found my way into developing biomaterials as a design student without the opportunities offered by CHEMARTS.
The amount of plastic waste in the world continues to grow, and even though the most severe manifestations of this global problem may not be visible in Finland, the overall situation is grim. That’s why there is significant potential in biomaterials, particularly in regions where forests represent such a significant natural resource. Biomaterials are easier to recycle, and they do not release toxic compounds or microplastics.
Ideally, we would make our bubble wrap material entirely from recycled materials, but even replacing plastic with cellulose is a step in the right direction. Our invention is the first and currently only bio-based bubble wrap alternative. It’s a good example of how the best end results can arise from an accident.”
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Prototype of a Children’s Shoe made of Soy Bark
Doctoral researcher and designer Ena Naito:
“Working with soy required a research-based approach: there was very little earlier research on soy as a material, so we didn’t really even know where to begin.
I started working with another designer, Taisa Ferreira Ribeiro. We specifically wanted to focus on soy because of its socio-cultural implications in our cultures – Taisa being from Brazil and myself being Japanese. Upon investigating the soy industry, we discovered that an enormous amount of surplus material is generated during its processing. This piqued our interest.
Working with soy presented certain challenges. Our goal was to design a shoe, but to do so, soy would have to be transformed into a material resembling cork to ensure a comfortable step. The sole would need to be durable, flexible, and elastic. We allotted ourselves several weeks to research the material: boiling and creating pastes, grinding it to various degrees of coarseness, separating pectin… Gradually, we began to find out what worked and what didn’t.
Biomaterials are often viewed simply as replacements for environmentally harmful materials. While this is undoubtedly an important aspect, I believe biomaterials should also be approached with an open mind. I am curious to research their unique qualities and explore their potential for facilitating something entirely new.
The specific properties of a material, such as texture, scent, or even flavour, can create unique value for it. The production or farming processes – the story behind the material – can influence how people relate to it. I am intrigued as to how we could cultivate a relationship with the materials we encounter in our everyday lives.
Currently, I am engaged as a doctoral researcher in Aalto University’s “CoCoon: Co-Creating Greener Futures” project, where cross-disciplinary collaboration is employed to integrate bio design into education. I am researching how the utilisation of living systems, such as fungi or seaweed, and knowledge of their production, influences our relationship with novel materials. Could this be a helpful route towards fostering a more committed and adaptive relationship with the environment?
For myself, CHEMARTS offers an opportunity to work directly at the interface of design and science, which was a major reason for wanting to study at Aalto University. We are encouraged to draw from different fields and not confine ourselves to a single discipline. This freedom is very liberating for a designer who seeks to work in symbiosis with scientific knowledge.”
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Textiles from Invasive Species: Lupine
Doctoral researchers Mithila Mohan (ARTS) and Maija Vaara (CHEM):
In Finland, lupines are considered a harmful invasive species – popping up in nearly every corner. It felt natural to ask ourselves: Could we do something with these plants as a material? We both have backgrounds in textiles. Why not attempt to make yarn from weeds, in this case, from lupines?
We began by separating fibres using simple, environmentally friendly methods. We submerged the plants in water and boiled them with baking soda. Maija spun the yarn, and we wove our first pieces of textile.
We soon noticed that the samples reacted to humidity. They started to roll up and change shape.
Both of us are involved in the Multifunctional Materials Design research group (MMD). We are interested in how materials respond to environmental conditions. Could we, for instance, combine traditional methods with unexpected biomaterials to create new smart materials? We saw a lot of potential in the reactivity of lupine.
However, we realised that our approach was perplexing to many. When presenting our lupine project, people have attempted to solve the fabric’s tendency to roll up as if it were a problem. We are accustomed to viewing textiles from the perspective of the textile industry, where materials are manipulated through arduous processes. When we managed – quite by accident – to extract lupines into cellulose, some listeners got excited, suggesting that we could start making Ioncell. But that would make no sense! It requires numerous chemicals.
By processing lupine to resemble more established materials, we could inadvertently create new problems. We want to highlight the characteristics of the material, not eliminate them. We find the natural wrinkling and rolling typical of lupine fibres appealing.
The aesthetics of textiles need to be shaken up. Not everything needs to be clean and perfect. Imperfection is interesting; all materials have their specific qualities. We believe that we can also justify this to users as long as we present our case well. Something with emotional appeal and handmade qualities is a viable alternative to industrial production.
We want to examine fibres and plants from the viewpoint of harnessing existing resources. Lupine is a prime example: it is an invasive species that grows independently and should, in any case, be eradicated. Utilising it requires no fertilisers or cultivated land.
Ideally, lupine could serve as a biomaterial that extends beyond industrial use: individuals could create their own yarn from plants collected on the roadside. We have no interest in contributing to mass production. When asked what we will do once all lupines are picked, we would like to say that our work is done. That would be perfect!”
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